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THE
POWER AMPLI FIER
for ASSEMBLY
and OPERATION
CAUTION: IF THE FUSES BLOW,
SOME DISTORTED SOUND CAN BE HEARD. THEREFORE IF AMPLIFIER MALFUNCTIONS, ALWAYS CHECK FOR BLOWN FUSES FIRST.
LM153
$3.00
Please refer to this serial number in all communications regarding this equipment.
THE DAVID HAFLER COMPANY 5910 Crescent Boulevard, Pennsauken, New Jersey 08109
DH-500
Power Rating: Less than 0.025% total harmonic distortion at any power level up to 255 watts continuous average power per channel into 8 ohms at any frequency between 20 Hz and 20 kHz with both channels driven. IM Distortion (SMPTE): Less than 0.007% from 1 watt to 255 watts into 8 ohms Typical THD at 255 watts into 8 ohms: 1 kHz-0.002%; 10 kHz-0.007% Frequency Response into 8 ohms: -3 dB, 0.5 Hz to 120 kHz at 1 watt kO.5 dB, 5 Hz to 40 kHz at 255 watts Typical Channel Separation at 1 kHz: 60 dB Signal to Noise Ratio: Exceeds 100 dB referred to 255 watts into 8 ohms, unweighted Exceeds 90 dB referred to 1 watt into 8 ohms, A weighting Input Impedance: 47,000 ohms Input Sensitivity: 2.35 volts for 255 watts into 8 ohms; 0.145 volts for 1 watt Damping Factor: 200 to 1 kHz into 8 ohms; 60 to 10 kHz into 8 ohms Rise Time: 10 kHz, 80 volts p/p square wave, 10% to 90%: 2.5 us. Slew Rate: 1 kHz, 120 volts p/p square wave: 45 V/us. Semiconductor Complement: 27 transistors, 12 power Mosfets, 33 diodes, 8 zener diodes, one integrated circuit, one diode bridge. Power Consumption: 240 VA quiescent; 1200 VA @ rated power into 8 ohms, 2 channels Size: 7-l/4" high, 19" wide, 13" deep including handles Net Weight: 45 lbs. Shipping Weight: 49 lbs.
CAUTION: For continued protection, replace the power fuse only with the same type and rating
as indicated.
WARNING: TO PREVENT FIRE OR SHOCK HAZARD, DO NOT EXPOSE THIS EQUIPMENT TO RAIN OR MOISTURE. 0 Copyright 1987. All rights reserved.
INTRODUCTION
The Hafler DH-500 is a two channel audio power amplifier designed to the very highest performance standards. It is available as a kit, or factory assembled. Its power rating of 255 watts per channel is very conservative, and it can deliver appreciably higher powers into impedances below the rated 8 ohms. You must be very cautious in the application of this amplifier, as its output capability is more than most speakers can safely tolerate. We urge you to read the "Operation" section of this manual so your speakers will be reasonably protected. The best protection is still common sense in choosing program levels which your speakers can tolerate. The DH-500 combines power MOSFET technology with a uniquely simple and effective circuit which reduces all types of distortion at all power outputs, over the entire audio spectrum, to levels where the finest test equipment has great difficulty in measuring it. The DH-500 sets a new high in reliability and resistance to abusive operating conditions at such high powers. This is one of the direct benefits of the power MOSFET' ability to current limit under s abnormal conditions. Where the conventional bipolar transistor must be protected by special circuits from entering "thermal runaway" when it gets hot due to heavy signals, tending to get even hotter, the MOSFET self-corrects to reduce the current, and thus the heat under the same conditions. You thus gain the dual advantages of simpler circuitry and the elimination of one of the chief causes for distorted signals imposed on the music-the sound of the actuation of complex protective circuits. The speed-measured as the slew rate-of the DH-500 delivers unmatched transient linearity, revealing the most delicate nuances of the music. In refining the basic Hafler MOSFET circuit the overall open loop gain was reduced by using more local feedback in the input stage. This required less compensation to stabilize the circuit, with the result that it was faster overall. With the built in bandwidth limitation at the input, all other stages are free of any transient overload. The fully complementary, symmetrical push-pull circuit is direct coupled throughout (except at the input). It uses all silicon discrete devices in a format which is directly related to the acclaimed Hafler preamplifier circuit. With its unconditional stability into virtually any load, and its enormous power capability, the result is complete freedom from listening fatigue. The longer you listen to this remarkable amplifier, the more certain you will be that you could not have made a better choice. While modest in cost, through the elimination of frills and gadgetry, the quality is evident not only in the sound, but in the conservatively rated components. The oversized power transformer, the conservative operating levels of the MOSFETs, the computer-grade electrolytics totalling 40,000 microfarads, the enclosed relay, the use of film capacitors in signal circuits-all are evidence of the design efforts to achieve exceptional reliability simultaneo'usly with state of the art sonics and specifications. So rugged is the DH-500 that it can deliver over 20 amperes into a short circuit! For those with special power needs, the DH-500 can be adapted to monophonic operation, delivering in excess of 800 watts into 8 ohms, by installing the DH-502 input bridging kit. Those who have chosen to build this amplifier from the kit will find the assembly instructions assume no technical ability other than how to make a good solder connection. Even that has been described for those who are new to the fun of kit building. Through pre-assembly and testing of the complete signal module, the performance of the kit has already been assured, for assembly involves little more than interconnection of the power supply and control elements. You can look forward to just a few hours of construction fun, to hear the finest audio amplifier yet produced.
CONTENTS
installation ..........................Page 4 Operation ................................4 Connections .............................5 Assembly Instructions .................... .6 If Problems Arise ........................I4 Circuit Description .......................I5 Schematic Diagram ..................... .16 Component Values ......................17 AC Line Connections for Overseas Use ... .I8 Kit Parts List .............................I9 Service and Warranty ................... .20 Pictorial Diagram .....................Insert
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INSTALLATION
The DH-500 may be installed out of sight in many applications, where its power can be controlled by the AC switching of a preamplifier control unit. However, any high power amplifier may draw enormous amounts of current, so you should make sure your preamplifier has the switching capacity for the amplifier' needs, as well as any s other equipment which it also switches. inadequate switch current capacity may eventually render the switch inoperative The power switches in Hafler preamplifiers have been chosen for their high ratings, and have been tested and deemed suitable for normal home switching of the DH500. However, if the amplifier is intended for operation at sustained high power levels, or where power switching is very frequent, or where the control unit must switch substantial additional current for other equipment, or if your control unit does not have the 15 ampere switching capacity, you should use the power switch on the DH-500, and connect it directly to the AC line. In such use, turn the amplifier on last, and switch it offfirst. This will avoid possible loudspeaker damage from turn-on transients generated by source equipment. A power transformer of this size puts out a noticeable hum field, even though the special design of this transformer minimizes such radiation. If the amplifier is to be installed close to a record player, you should first check for freedom from hum pickup by the phono cartridge. Some cartridges are much more sensitive than others, and require more separation from the amplifier. Check at a relatively high volume setting, while swinging the tone arm throughout its arc. A few inches additional space will usually solve any problem. Ventilation is most important! Unobstructed air circulation at the sides and back is important for long trouble-free life. A 3 speed fan operates at its lowest speed whenever the amplifier is turned on, and is automatically switched to higher speeds at the power output demands it. Air is drawn in at the sides, and expelled to the rear. With normal home music levels the cooling capacity is sufficient that the fan will rarely operate at other than low speed, where it is so quiet that your ear must be close to a vent to hear it. The front panel is designed to facilitate mounting in a standard 19" rack. Be sure a l l of the cover screws are installed w h e n the unit is supported by the front p a n e l
OPERATION
The AC power cord should be plugged into a source of 120 volts, 60 Hz, unless the amplifier is specially provided with the multi-voltage optional transformer. Press the power switch to the right to turn the amplifier on. A red pilot lamp in the power switch signifies that it is on. If it is not illuminated, the most likely cause is a blown AC line fuse. That is the single fuse close to the switch inside the chassis. However, since the amplifier uses a 15 ampere slo-blo fuse, and the typical home circuit is also rated at 15 amps, check that as well. To avoid the turn-on transients generated in many control units, there is a 3 second delay before the relay connects the speakers. A few preamps may require a longer delay to avoid their internally generated turn-on pulses. Information on extending this turn-on delay is available from the company on request. A standard 2-wire power cord was chosen in preference to a 3-wire grounded AC cord, because there is no significant current leakage in this design. Where local requirements dictate the need for a 3-wire power connection, a ground lug may be attached to the chassis adjacent to the AC line fuse holder. If the pilot lamp should ever blink (about 2-3 times a second), this signifies that a protective thermal breaker has shut down the amplifier because ofexcessive heat sink temperature. The fan will be operating at its highest speed, and as soon as the heat sink temperature has declined, the amplifier will automatically return to normal operation. Such an occurrence is extremely unlikely, and if the amplifier shuts down again and the lamp flashes, you should check for inadequate ventilation, or an excessive input signal, an extremely low load impedance, or an input which may have dangerous signal content (such as osciIlation). Failing evidence of this, the fan or the amplifier may have malfunctioned, Because of the very effective fan cooling, any normal signal will not cause the amplifier to overheat. At normal home use levels, the average power consumption is likely around 250 watts. The unit' efficiency s is about 5O%, so some full power tests may exceed the capacity of a 15 amp circuit. When performing tests, voltage losses due to long lines should be taken into consideration, or compensated for. Loudspeaker Fuse Selection The DH-500 is supplied with 2 ampere fuses in the speaker lines. This conservative value has been chosen for initial use because most high quality speaker systems cannot safely handle very high power levels, even though a high power amplifier invariably makes them sound their best. Since a substantial overload must continue for a few seconds before a fuse blows, a 2 ampere fuse will allow very high power peaks to pass without hindrance, yet will protect most speaker systems. Smaller fuses tend to blow too easily, and it is unlikely you will be using speakers with low power ratings with the DH-500. Larger fuse sizes may not adequately protect the majority of speakers intended for home listening.
If the manufacturer of your speakers recommends a specific fuse value for their protection, you should obtain 3AG type fuses of that value and substitute them for the ones supplied. The speaker fuses are included in the amplifier design solely for speaker protection. They do not protect, or affect, the amplifier's operation. A blown speaker fuse does not indicate malfunction-simply a higher than normal output signal. If the amplifier produces a low level distorted signal, a blown speaker fuse is the most likely cause. We do not recommend the use of a slo-blo type fuse for speaker protection. If your speakers can handle the higher power levels safely, and you wish to install fuses of higher ratings, we suggest- for the sake of the speakers-that you increase fuse size in l/2 ampere increments. THIS AMPLIFIER IS ABLE TO DELIVER SUBSTANTIALLY MORE POWER THAN MOST SPEAKERS CAN SAFELY TOLERATE. Therefore the Hafler Comp a n y cannot assume any responsibility for damage to the load (loudspeaker) because the choice o f f u s e six is in your hands . The 2 amp fuse, with an 8 ohm load, permits continuous power up to 32 watts, with peaks well above that. 2-l/2 amps passes 50 watts; 3 amps, 72 watts; 5 amps, 200 watts. We have included a pair of 5 amp fuses as alternates, for temporary use as spares; for testing the amplifier at very high power levels; and for operation into very low load impedances, 5 amps will pass 80 watts into a 4 ohm load. We suggest that you obtain additional type 3AG fuses of the
appropriate size for your speakers. Loudspeaker Power Ratings There are no U.S. standards for rating the power handling capabilities of loudspeakers. As a result the manufacturers' usual "music power" r a t i n g s , o r s u g g e s t e d amplifier limits, are of only minimal help in determining safe operating levels with amplifiers which can deliver enormous amounts of power. On the other hand, some speakers, particularly tweeters, can also be damaged through the use of too small an amplifier if it is driven into sustained clipping. However, tweeters are also more vulnerable to high level signals which are not always noticeably loud to the ear (as from electronic music sources), so you may wish to separately protect the tweeters with fuses of lower rating. You must take into consideration the type of music, and the levels you like, to provide long term trouble-free operation of your speaker choice, when you have a very powerful amplifier like the DH-500. If more than one pair of speakers will be connected to the amplifier, proper protection would dictate that each speaker be separately fused, since when they are operated in parallel, the combination of lower impedance and the higher power handling capacity would suggest a much larger fuse at the amplifier than would provide individual protection. If full power tests are to be performed, particularly at low load impedances, fuse ratings above 10 amps may be required for the duration of the test.
CONNECTIONS
AC The standard unit is intended for 120 volt, 60 Hz operation. If it is controlled by an AC switch on a preamplifier, the DH-500 power switch may be left on. If your line voltage is other than that provided in the United States, be sure you have the alternate multi-voltage power transformer, and be sure it is wired for your mains voltage before you plug in the amplifier. The connections for other line voltages will be found in the back of this manual. Input Standard phono jacks are installed to accept conventional shielded cables, such as those supplied with your preamplifier. Be sure that the outer shield connection is secure, to avoid hum. The length of these cables (so as to permit remote location of the amplifier, if desired) is limited only by the output impedance of the preamplifier. If it is 1000 ohms or less, as with Hafler preamplifiers, cable lengths of up to 100 feet are permissible without loss of performance. Special low capacitance cables enable even greater distance between preamp and power amplifier. It is desirable to keep the left and right input cables close together throughout their length to minimize the likelihood of hum pickup. They should cross AC cords at right angles- never running parallel to AC lines at close range. For professional applications the phono inputjacks may be easily replaced with l/4" phone jacks. Be sure, in that case, that they are grounded to the adjacent ground lug. Output The loudspeakers connect to the red and black 4-way binding posts. These are of a particularly heavy duty construction to handle the high currents which may be involved. They are spaced for double banana plugs, or you can connect stranded wire through the vertical hole in the shaft which is visible when the cap is unscrewed. To be certain that no strands of wire are unsecured, a tinned end, or a spade lug soldered to the wire is recommended. Be sure to maintain correct speaker phasing by watching the lead identification in the hookup wire, and the identification of the speaker terminals. It is important that the "sense" of one speaker' connections match the others. If s the speakers are out of phase, you will find that the sonic image has a "hole in the middle", and there will be a loss of bass. This will be most evident on monophonic material. Correct it by reversing the leads to one speaker. Select speaker wire of sufficient size to preserve the high damping factor of the DH-500, Standard 18 gauge lamp cord is the minimum suggested, and is suitable for short distances. The next larger wire is #16. There are also a 5
number of specialty speaker cables preferred by perfectionists. If you have 4 ohm speakers, larger wire is recommended than for the typical 8 ohm speakers, too. The black output terminals are connected to ground internally. The black terminals may be connected together (common ground) when in the normal stereo mode, to utilize headphone junction boxes, or other accessories employing a common ground system.
It is important that the red terminals never be connected together when operating in stereo. Thus it is important that you carefully observe the proper connections when using a common ground device, to be sure there is no reversal. In the special case where the amplifier has been internally modified to convert it to monophonic bridged operaDH-502 tion, with the addition of the DH-502, then only one input jack is connected, and the output is taken only from the two red terminals. Such a "floating" connection must be maintained, with no connection to the black terminals.
ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS
There are three basic rules for success in electronic kit building: 1. Read the instructions carefully, and follow them in order. 2. Make secure solder connections which are bright and smooth. 3. Check your work carefully after each step. The DH-500 amplifier is a versatile component with sophisticated circuitry which has been made remarkably easy to build by individuals with many years ofexperience in the design and engineering of the finest performing audio kits, and in the preparation of their manuals. Kit building should be fun, and we are certain you will find this to be so. Assembly will be faster, easier, and more enjoyable if you have someone help you by reading the steps aloud, selecting the required parts, and preparing the necessary wire lengths in advance as you proceed. Fatigue increases the risk of error, so take a break rather than push to early completion. There are relatively few separate components in this design, to make it easy to pack everything away, if need be. Your work area should have good lighting, the proper tools, and a place where the large pictorial diagram can be tacked to the wall within easy reach for checking. The tools should include: 4. A wire stripping tool for removing insulation. This can be a single-edge razor blade, but inexpensive stripping tools are safer, faster and easier. 5. A medium-blade screwdriver (about I/4" wide). 6. A #l or #2 Phillips head screwdriver. 7. Needle-nose pliers (a long, narrow tip). 8. Diagonal or side-cutting small pliers. 9. Large "gas" or "slip-joint" pliers. 10. A 1/4" "Spin-tite" nut driver may be helpful, but is not necessary. A soldering "gun" is not recommended. The unfamiliar user is more likely to damage the etched circuit boards with its higher heat potential and unbalanced weight. Also, because he may not wait long enough for it to reach operating temperature each time it is switched on, poor solder connections are more likely. Pencil irons are much lighter and easier to use, and there is no waiting time when solder connections follow in sequence, as in kit building. Make sure you have a holder for it, though, and always unplug it when you take a break. Proper Soldering There are four steps to making a good solder connection: 1. Make a good mechanical connection to hold the wire in position while heat and solder is applied. 1. A 40 to 60 watt pencil soldering iron with a 306" or smaller tip which reaches 700°F. 2. 60/40 (60% tin) ROSIN CORE solder , l/16" diameter or smaller. 3. A damp sponge or cloth to wipe the hot tip of the iron. 2. Heat thejunction of the wire and lug, or eyelet, with the bright, shiny tip of the iron. 3. After heating for a couple seconds, apply solder to the iunction. It should melt immediately and flow smoothly around both surfaces.
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4. Allow the connection to cool undisturbed. Remember that the connection is made by the solder, not by mechanically attaching the wire to the terminal. Usually the wire is looped through the lug and crimped in place, but some prefer to just place it through the hole and rely on the stiffness of the wire to hold it while soldering. Eyelet connections, of course, are handled this way. Good solder connections are essential for trouble-free, noise-free operation. A good solder joint does not require much solder around the conductors. Never "butter" partially melted solder on the joint, as it is useless. A good connection looks smooth and bright because the solder flows into every crevice when the parts are hot enough. The iron must have a bright, shiny tip to transfer heat easily to the junction. That' why the damp sponge should be s used frequently to wipe the tip, and occasionally you must add a small amount of solder to the tip, too. If a connection is difficult to heat, "wet" the tip with a small blob of solder to provide a bigger contact surface to the joint. Once the solder flows around the conductors, any movement must be avoided for a few seconds to allow a good bond. When cool, check the connection by wiggling the wire. If in doubt, or if the connection is not shiny, re-heat the joint. Excess solder may be removed from a connection by heating it and allowing the solder to flow onto the iron, which is then wiped on the sponge. ALL SOLDER USED MUST BE ROSIN CORE Never use acid core solder or any separate flux in electronic work. Silver solder is also not suitable. If in doubt about unmarked solder, always obtain a fresh supply of rosin core solder. We recommend 60/40 for easiest use. Do not confuse it with 40160, which is harder to melt. The general procedure is to use a hot iron for a short time to heat a connection, then add solder with the iron still in contact. Remove the solder once it flows, and then remove the iron. A cooler iron applied for a longer time is more likely to damage components, or lift the copper circuit pattern from the boards. A break in the etched circuit can be mended by simply soldering a small piece of wire across it. D O not allow much build-up of solder on the tip of the iron, or it may fall into adjacent circuitry. When soldering to an eyelet or hole on the board, insert the wire from the components side, and apply the iron to the bottom, leaving some bare wire exposed so that you can see that the eyelet is then filled with solder for a secure bond. A round wooden toothpick is suggested so that you can heat and clear an eyelet of solder if it hinders your inserting the wire. Some builders prefer to clear every eyelet first with a touch of the iron and toothpick. Others connect the lead by bringing it up to the center of the eyelet on top of the board, applying the iron from the bottom of the board, and pushing the lead in as the solder in the eyelet melts. If the wire has first been "tinned," usually no additional solder is necessary, but it is a good practice to push the wire through, and then back it up a bit, to be sure solder fills the eyelet. On the bottom of the board, make certain a bright, shiny flow is evident from the wire onto the circuit pattern on the board. "Tin ning" refers to the process of applying a light coatn ing of solde r to the bared wire end. This k eeps all the
strands secured, and also makes a good connection easier. Simply touch the wire with the iron for a couple seconds, and apply solder. Allow the excess to flow away onto the iron. When properly done, the wire is uniformly bright, and no larger than before. The hookup wire supplied with this kit does not normally need tinning, for it is pre-tinned. Wiring the Kit If any components are unfamiliar to you, checking the pictorial diagram should quickly identify them. Or, the quantities, and the process of elimination as you check the parts list, will help. The pictorial diagram is necessarily distorted to some extent for clarity, so that you can trace every wire in a single overall view for verification as you work. You may wish to check off on the diagram as you solder each location.
To "prepare" a wire means to cut the designated length from the coil of that color, and strip about l/4" of insulation from each end. The wire supplied in the kit is #18 and #22, so you can set adjustable wire-strippers accordingly. The transformer leads are #18, and the line cord is #16. Be careful that you do not nick the wire when you strip it (that can happen more easily if you do not use wire strippers) for that weakens it. The wire supplied in this kit is "bonded stranded," which provides exceptional flexibility with resistance to breakage for easier use.
Whenever a connection is to be soldered, the instructions will so state, or indicate by the symbol (S). If more than one wire is to be soldered to the same point, they will be indicated by (S-2), (S-4), etc. If soldering is not called for, other connections have yet to be made to that terminal. They would be more difficult if the connection was already soldered. Every connection in the kit will be soldered when it is complete. After soldering a connection, it is best to clip off any excess lead length to minimize the possibility of a short circuit (as on switch lugs, where terminals are very close together), and for neatness.
t Be sure that uninsulated wires ca nnot touch adjacent terminals or the chassis metalwork.
The symbol (#) indicates a connection is to be made to that point. When a lug number is specified without (#), it is simply a locating reference. When the instructions call for twisting two or three wires together, the length of wire indicated anticipates a fairly tight, uniform twist by hand, of three full turns every two inches. If you find the wires too short, loosening the twist will gain some needed length. Handle the circuit boards carefully. They represent a major part of the kit cost. Stand-up components, such as transistors, should be checked when you install the module, to be sure all leads are separated, and that the large electrolytic capacitors have not broken loose from the board. Take the time to be accurate and neat, and you can be sure that your completed amplifier will meet the performance of a factory assembled unit, and can continue to perform properly for years to come. Check your work, and make sure the entire step has been completed before placing a check mark in the space provided, and continuing on to the next step.
MECHANICAL ASSEMBLY
1 0 For security in shipping, the power transformer and the amplifier module have been fastened to the chassis. Remove the chassis cover, the inner front panel and the larger front plate, and set these aside. Be particularly careful in handling the amplifier module. to see that the leads of the upright components on the circuit boards are not stressed. This module accounts for more than half the kit cost, and has already been thoroughly tested for specified performance before it was packed. Turn the chassis upside down, and rest it on the module and transformer to remove these parts. Include all of the hardware you have removed with the rest when you check off the components against the parts list in the back of this manual. We recommend this check-off to be sure you have everything, and to enable you to identify any unfamiliar items by comparing them with the pictorial diagram. Although the perspective of the diagram has sometimes been distorted to show connections more clearly, it should enable you to recognize any unfamiliar component. An egg carton is ideal for keeping small items like hardware at hand. It will simplify matters if you first separate the #4 nuts from the #6 nuts, which have the same outside dimensions. A #4 screw will pass through a #6 nut, aiding identification. A "set" of hardware includes one screw and one KEP nut (with its attached lockwasher). Always install the lockwasher side of the nut first. If the size of the hardware is not specified, use the # 4 size, which is the smallest. #10 is the largest. Always insert the screw from the outside of the chassis. 2 0 With the chassis upside down, select the 4 rubber feet and 4 sheet metal screws. The screw head recesses fully into the foot. Install these in the holes which are about I" in from each corner. 3 0 Select the AC line cord and the plastic strain relief. Separate the two conductors of the cord for 2 inches. Strip l/4" of insulation from each lead. Twist the bare strands tightly, and tin each lead. 13" from the ends make a sharp "V" in the cord by bending it sharply back on itself. Install the strain relief as shown, with the small end of the strain relief nearest the stripped end of the line cord. Crimp the two halves of the strain relief around the wire at the V with heavy pliers, to partially form it before insertion into the back panel. Considerable squeezing is necessary, because the thick insulation "pops back" quickly. Then grip the larger diameter of the strain relief with the tips of heavy pliers, squeeze it tightly, and insert the end of the cord through the back panel AC hole from the outside. Note that the hole has two flat sides, and the relief is shaped accordingly. This is a very tight fit-you will have to pull on the cord to help-but it snaps into position when fully inserted.
4 0 Select the two input sockets and 4 sets of hardware. Install the sockets at LS and RS inside the chassis so that the short lug is nearest the hole in the chassis between the two sockets. 5 0 Select the single ground lug (with lockwasher teeth) and one set of hardware. Install it between the input sockets. Point it toward the bottom, and bend it out for access. Be certain this lug is tight. The locking teeth must cut through the chassis paint for a good ground connection. 6 0 Select the two round fuse holders with caps, and their l/2" h a r d w a r e : r u b b e r w a s h e r s , m e t a l lockwashers, and nuts. First install the rubber washer on each holder, so it will be outside the chassis, and then fasten them at locations LF and RE The holes have flats which mate with the fuse holder to keep it from turning. Point the tip lugs towards each other. Be sure all of this hardware is tight, as it will not be accessible once the amplifier is completed. 7 17 Select the two red output terminals and their hardware: the red washers, 4 nuts without lockwashers, and two plain connecting lugs. Note that each part of the terminal has a flat which mates with the flat top of the chassis hole. Install the terminals in the two center holes LR and RR so that the washer flat is engaged, tighten one nut securely, add the lug pointing up, and tighten the second nut. 8 0 Select the two black output terminals, their hardware, and two plain connecting lugs. Install them at LB and RB as in the previous step.
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90 S e l e c t the plastic encased relay, the longer L-shaped mounting bracket, and 2 sets of hardware. Insert the screws through the bracket with the bracket foot pointing away from the lugs at the opposite end of the relay. ` lighten this hardware securely, but do not risk breaking the plastic. 10 Select 2 sets of hardware and mount the relay near the 2 red terminals, with the bracket facing front. Install the screws from below the chassis. Select the 2 shorter L brackets, 4 sets of hardware, and the circuit board PC-9 Mount the brackets on PC-9. the circuit side of the board, with the feet pointing away from the board. Select 2 sets of hardware and install the circuit board between the line cord and terminal RB, with the components facing to the rear.
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Select the two 2 amp fuses and install them in the round fuse holdders on the back of the chassis. This will keep the caps from being loosened and lost.
This completes the basic mechanical assembly of the chassis. Set it aside for the present. 20 0 Select the large front plate, the smaller front panel with the edges turned back, the two handles, and four #lO screws. With the power switch cutouts aligned, place the screws through the panel from the rear, through the front plate, and secure the handles. Set this assembly aside. 21 0 Select the amplifier module. Handle it with care! The fan is mounted on the front of the module, with a foam gasket on the rear. On the bottom, two thermal sensors for the fan, and two safety thermal breakers are already mounted on the heat sinks. With the module upside down, and the fan away from you (to keep the left channel on the left, for consistency) cut the right fan lead to 5-3/4", strip it l/4", and connect it to TS2 lug #6. 22 0 Cut the left fan lead to 4", strip it l/4", and connect it to TBl lug #l.
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13 0 Select the 7-lug terminal strip and 2 sets of hardware. Install it at the two inner holes in front of PC-9. The hole near the right chassis edge is not used. The mounting feet face forward. 14 0 Select the single fuse clip and a set of hardware. Install it in the single hole between the two "dimples" at the front of the chassis. The dimples prevent the clip from turning too far. 15 0 Select the 2 dual fuse clips and 4 sets of hardware. Install one of these in the pair of holes nearest the center of the chassis, and the other in the pair of holes aligned with it near the left edge. 16
A soldering iron will be used regularly from now on. Be sure you wipe its tip frequently with a damp cloth or sponge, as a bright tip will make connections easier with less likelihood of overheating components. If it is difficult to heat a connection in a couple of seconds, apply a small amount of fresh solder to the tip so it can flow around the connection and provide good heat transfer.
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Select the 3/4" long #6 screw and a nut, and the rectifier diode block which has four lugs. Install the rectifier DB in the front center hole nearest the fuse holders. Note the lug positioning in the diagram, and check the marked location of the + lug.
17 I-J Select the two round capacitor brackets, the two large capacitors, and 8 sets of #6 hardware. Place a bracket around the bottom of each capacitor and fasten it with one set of hardware through each clamp. Note the direction of insertion of the screw for easy servicing access in the future. The clamp should be snug, but not tight. Place each assembly so the clamping screws are accessible from the front at locations CL and CR, and secure each with 3 sets of hardware. Then loosen the clamps and rotate the capacitors so that each + terminal is positioned as in the diagram. Make sure the capacitors are seated against the chassis and tighten both clamps. 18 0 Select the 4 plain connecting lugs and four l/4" long large screws with lockwashers attached. Install these on top of the capacitors with the lugs pointing as in the diagram.
There are two gauges of wire supplied with connections which pass substantial current, wire is used. Other connections need only the wire. Connect the wires to the bottom of the the right side,
the kit. For the heavier lighter gauge module from
While excessive heat or careless "scrubbing" with the iron can lift the circuit foil from the board, more people tend to use insufficient heat, making it difficult for the solder to flow smoothly around the connection. A smooth, bright connection is important.
23 0 Prepare a 9-1/2"r ed wire and connect one end to TS2 lug #6. (S-2). 24 0 Prepare a 71/2" green wire and connect one end to TBl lug #l. (S-2). 25 0 Select the ` inrush limiter' which is a disc about the , size of a quarter. Trim the leads to 1/2" and connect it between TBl lug #2 and TB2 lug #3. Solder both lugs. 26 0 Prepare a 7-1/2"" white wire and connect one end to TB2 lug #4. (S). 27 0 Prepare a l-1/4" black wire. Connect one end to TSl lug #7. (S). Connect the other end to TS2 lug #8. 28 q Prepare a 9" black wire. Connect one end to TS2 lug #8. (S-2).
31 0 Prepare an 8" black wire and an 8" red wire. Start with the red wire 1/2" longer at one end, and twist these wires together throughout their length. Connect the longer end of the red wire to eyelet #l of the board which is to your left as you face the rear of the module. Eyelet #l is the upper eyelet. Connect the black wire to eyelet #2. Be sure both eyelets are securely soldered. Place these wires down under the module. 32 0 Prepare an 8-1/2"black wire, and a 7-1/2`yellow wire. Allow the black wire to project 1/2" beyond the yellow wire, and twist these together. The black wire connects to the upper eyelet #2 of the circuit board to your right. (S). Connect the yellow wire to eyelet #l. (S). Place this pair under the module. Now turn the module around so the fan is toward you. The eyelets are numbered consecutively, one to each circuit tab visible along the edge of the board, from 3 to 10. The small tab numbers are visible adjacent to each tab on the underside of the board. 33 0 Prepare two 7" white wires. Connect one to the right circuit board eyelet #8, towards the bottom. (S). Connect the other wire to eyelet #6. (S). You may find it easier to work if the module is laid flat on its back foam gasket. Bend these wires toward the bottom of the fan bracket, and twist them together throughout their length. 34 0 Prepare a 13"green wire. Connect it to eyelet #7 of the right board. (S). 35 g Prepare an 1l"white wire. Connect it to eyelet #5 of the right board. (S). Bend this wire toward the bottom of the bracket. 36 0 Prepare a 3"green wire and connect it to eyelet #lO of the right board. (S). 37
29 0 Prepare a 10-1/2" yellow wire. Connect one end to TSl lug #5. (S). 30 0 Twist the red, yellow and black wires from TSl and TS2 together. Also twist together the green and white wires from TBl and TB2. Place both of these wire groups off to the right of the module. Then turn the module right side up, with the fan away from you, and the wires extending off to the left.
When soldering to eyelets (holes) on the circuit boards, the wires will be connected to the outside (top) of the board, but they must be soldered securely to the circuitry on the underside. It is best to heat the eyelet on the inner surface while the wire is inserted from the outside. This requires an iron with a small tip (preferably chisel shaped) and some care on your part. It is easiest to melt a small blob of solder on the tip, and position it at the eyelet so that the solder blob, more than the tip itself, is heating the eyelet. If the eyelet is first filled with solder, and the wire end is pushed all the way through the heated eyelet first, then withdrawn part way to expose a bit of the bare end outside the board before the solder cools, you should have a firmly soldered connection if it cools undisturbed.
q q q
Always tin a wire that is to connect to an eyelet. After soldering, go back and check by twisting each wire, to make sure nothing moves on the other side of the board. It is wise to check any existing wire connected to an adjacent eyelet, to make sure your work has not loosened it. When connecting heavy gauge wire to the eyelets, if you get too much solder on in the tinning process, it will be hard for the wire to penetrate the eyelet. 10
Prepare a 6-1/2" white wire and connect it to eyelet #3 of the right board. (S). Prepare a 13" green wire and connect it to eyelet #7 of the left board. (S). Prepare a 13" white wire and connect it to eyelet #5 of the left board. Bend this wire toward the bottom.
38
39
40 0 Prepare two 9" white wires. Connect one to eyelet #8 of the left board. (S). Connect the other to eyelet #6. (S). Bend these toward the bottom, and twist them together. 41 0 Prepare a 3" white wire and connect it to eyelet #3. (S). 42 0 Prepare a 6" green wire and connect it to eyelet #10 (S). Set the module aside temporarily.
52 q
Select the spade lug and connect it to the free end of the white wire from LT lug 6. Place this wire to the left, and twist it lightly together with the green wire from LT lug 3.
When connecting wires to the PC-9 circuit board note that the eyelets on this board are numbered in the reverse direction from the lug numbers on the terminal strip.
CHASSIS WIRING 43 0 Select the chassis and the .39 mfd capacitor. Trim each lead to 1/2". Connect one lead of the capacitor to L T lug #3. Connect the other lead to lug #4. 44 I-J Select the silicon diode. Note that one end has a stripe for identification. Connect the striped end to LT lug #3. Connect the other lead to lug #2. 45 0 Select the 1/2 watt 1 megohm (brown-black-green) resistor. Trim each lead to l/2" and connect one lead to LT lug #2. (S-2). Connect the other lead to LT lug #l. 46 0 Prepare a 7-1/2" white wire. Connect one end to LT lug #1. (S-2). Connect the other end to fuse clip FC lug #l. (S). 47 0 Prepare a 12"green wire. Connect one end to LT lug #3. (S-3). 48 0 Select one of the spade lugs. Connect it to the other end of the green wire just attached to lug #3. (S). The proper way to connect one of the spade lugs to the wire is to bend the shorter, wider set of tabs tightly around the bare wire, and bend the outer, longer set of tabs around the insulation. Then flow solder into the joint around the bare wire. 49 q Check both conductors of the power cord to see that they are tinned to secure every strand. Connect one lead of the power cord to FC lug #2. (S).
53
q
Prepare a 2 3/4" red wire. Connect one end to PC-9 eyelet #8. (S). Connect the other end to relay RY lug #7.
54 0 Prepare a 2" yellow wire. Connect one end to PC-9 eyelet #7. (S). Connect the other end to RY lug #9. 55 /J Strip a 1-1/2"length of heavy wire bare. Connect one end to large capacitor CL lug X2. (S). Connect the other end to CR lug #3. (S). Be very sure that these connections are well soldered because they will carry considerable current. 56 0 Prepare an 8-1/2" red wire. Connect one end to PC-9 eyelet #6. (S). 57 0 Prepare a 19' black wire. Connect one end to PC-9 eyelet #5. (S). 58 q Prepare a 9" yellow wire. Connect one end to PC-9 eyelet #4. (S).
50 0 Select another spade lug and connect it to the free end of the power cord. (S). 51 q Prepare a 13" white wire. Connect one end to the lower hole of LT lug #6. (S). Using the lower hole will make it easier for other wires to be connected to the same lug.
NOTE FOR MULTIVOLTAGE OPTION: This wire may need to be 1" longer, and may connect to another terminal for some line voltages.
59 0 Place the red, black and yellow wires toward the left and twist them lightly together. Keep these against the chassis and connect the red wire to dual fuse clip FR lug #5. Connect the yellow wire to FR lug #6. Connect the black wire to the center of the bare wire between the two capacitors CL and CR. (S). Six other wires will be connected to the center of this bare wire. The amplifier will have the lowest hum if the last wire to be connected (from the transformer -a heavy wire) is placed in the exact center of this link between the two capacitors, so leave a small space for it. However, all 7 wires should be connected as near to the center point as possible. 60 c] Prepare a 41/2" red wire and connect one end to PC-9 eyelet #3. (S). 61 /-J Prepare a 5-3/4" yellow wire and connect one end to PC-9 eyelet #2. (S). Place this wire and the red wire from eyelet 3 to the left. Twist them lightly together and connect the red wire to RY lug #B. (S). Connect the yellow wire to RY lug #A. (S).
11
62 0 Prepare a 3" white wire. Connect one end to RY lug #4. (S). Connect the other end to red output terminal LR. (S). 63 [7 Prepare another 3" white wire. Connect one end to RY lug #6. (S). Connect the other end to output terminal RR. (S). 64 0 Prepare a 16"green wire. Connect one end to black output terminal LB. (S). Connect the other end close to the center of the bare wire between the two capacitors. (S). 65 0 Prepare an 18" green wire. Connect one end to output terminal RB. (S). Connect the other end to the bare wire between the two capacitors. (S). 66 q Prepare an 11-E" green wire. Connect one end to dual fuse clip FL lug #4. (S). Connect the other end to CR lug #4.
74 q
Select the yellow and black twisted pair from the left side of the module. Connect the black wire to the short ground lug of input socket LS. (S-2). Connect the yellow wire to the long lug of LS. (S).
75 0 Select the red and black pair from the right side, and connect the black wire to the short lug of input socket RS. (S-2). Connect the red wire to the long lug of RS. (S). 76 0 Select the twisted white pair from the left side. Connect the longer wire to the side lug of the fuse holder LE (S). Connect the other wire to the tip lug of LF. (S). 77 0 Select the twisted white pair from the right side. Connect the longer wire to the side lug of RF (S). Connect the other wire to the tip lug of RF (S). Make sure that all of the unconnected long wires (except for the green wires to eyelet 7 on each board) are placed off to the right so that when the module is installed on the chassis these wires will protrude between the feet below the right circuit board. The wires to the #7 eyelets, as well as those to eyelets 3 and 10, connect towards the front of the amplifier. Carefully lift the module without touching the components on the circuit boards. Swing it into position on the chassis, and check to make sure that no wires are trapped under the mounting feet. Make sure that the input socket long lugs have not been bent so that any shorts are possible there-or to the chassis. Keep all wires away from the ` inrush limiter' disc-against the chassis. It is a good idea at this time to check the fan by hand, to make sure it rotates freely. Shipping sometimes may cause a misalignment. If it rubs, bending a strut will correct the problem. 78 0 Select 4 sheet metal screws and secure the module to the chassis. The easiest procedure may be to tilt the whole assembly backwards so that the module is again lying on the gasket, giving you access to the bottom of the chassis. Start the screws, and then check again to make sure no wires are trapped before tightening the screws fully. 79 0 Select the green and white twisted pair from the bottom of the module. Connect the green wire to the terminal strip LT lug #l. Connect this wire to the lower hole in that lug, and solder it separately from the two wires which are soldered to the upper part of the lug, Make sure all 3 wires are soldered. Connect the white wire to LT lug #4. Use the lower hole for this wire, and solder it separately now. Do not solder the capacitor lead to the upper part of the lug at this time.
67 0 Prepare a 7" white wire. Connect one end to FL lug #3. (S). Connect the other end to CL lug #l. 68 0 Prepare a 12"white wire. Connect one end to FR lug #7. (S). Place this against the chassis and connect it to CL lug #l. 69 0 Prepare a 13" white wire. Connect one end to CL lug #l. (S-3). Connect the other end to the rectfier block DB lug #2. (S). This is the lug marked + on the rectifier. 70 0 Prepare a 7 1/2' green wire. Connect one end to FR lug #8. (S). Connect the other end to CR lug #4. 71 0 Prepare another 8"green wire. Connect one end to CR lug #4. (S-3), Connect the other end to DB lug #3. (S). 72 0 Strip a 3/4" piece of light wire bare. Connect it between the short ground lug of input socket LS and the separate ground lug between the 2 input sockets. 73 0 Prepare a 14" black wire, but strip 3/4" of insulation from one end. Thread the longer bared end through the separate ground lug, and connect it to the short ground lug of input socket RS. Solder only the two wires at the center ground lug at this time. Place the wire against the chassis, and connect the other end to the bare wire between the two large capacitors. (S). This is the 4th of 7 wires connected at this point. Remember to leave space in the exact center for the last wire, but keep all of these close together. Now place the wired amplifier module behind the chassis in line with the input sockets, so that it is resting on the foam gasket, with the mounting feet against the chassis. Its wires will protrude toward the chassis, or to the right. 12
80 0 Select the triad of black, red and yellow wires from under the module. These will be connected to the right end of the terminal strip, and to prevent the heat from the large resistors from melting the insulation on the wires, connect the wires from behind the terminal strip and keep them against the chassis, so the resistors will be above them. Connect the black wire to LT lug #5. Connect the yellow wire to LT lug #6. Connect the red wire to LT lug #7. 81 0 Select one of the 300* ohm 7 watt resistors. Trim each lead to 3/4' ' . Strip two 1/Z" lengths of insulation from a piece of heavy wire, and place one piece over each resistor lead as insulation. Connect one lead to LT lug #5 on the front side of the strip. Connect the other lead to lug #6. Because lug #6 will eventually have several wires, it is important that each wire be placed as low as possible in the opening, and crimped so as to maintain the largest possible opening for the last wire. * In these two steps, use the 600 ohm resistors instead, if the overseas multivoltage transformer option is wired for 200 240 volt AC lines. See page 18. A 220 volt fan must be used, part #AAI28, and will have been fitted if specified. 82 0 Select the remaining 300" ohm resistor. Trim each lead to 3/4" and place this resistor on the back side of the terminal strip and connect one lead to LT lug #5. (S-3). Connect the other lead to LT lug #7. (S-2). 83 0 Select the white wire from the left circuit board, protruding from underneath the module. Connect it to RY lug #7. (S-2). 84 0 Select the long white wire from eyelet 5 on the right circuit board. Place it under the relay and connect it to RY lug #9. (S-2). 85 0 Connect the short white wire from the left side of the module to fuse clip FL lug #l. (S). 86 0 Connect the longer green wire from eyelet 7 on the left side to the bare wire between the 2 large capacitors. (S). Place it down against the chassis. 87 0 Connect the green wire from eyelet 10 on the left side to FL lug #2. (S). 88 0 Connect the short green wire from eyelet 10 on the right side to FR lug #6. (S-2). 89
The wiring of the amplifier is now to be completed with the installation of the power transformer and two disc capacitors. The following instructions refer to the 120 volt transformer supplied for the USA. If your kit is supplied with the optional multivoltage transformer for overseas use, separate instructions in this manual will diagram, both in pictorial form, and schematically, the connection for each line voltage.
NOTE FOR MULTIVOLTAGE OPTION : The following steps which describe the installation of the capacitors, and the connection of the two red leads, and the red/yellow lead of the transformer are to be followed for all units. Only the connections for the black and black/white transformer leads, and the additional leads supplied on your transformer, may differ. You should follow all the other steps to the completion of your amplifier.
91 0 Select the 4 sets of #10 hardware and the 4 washers, and the power transformer. Carefully place the transformer in position, making sure no wires are trapped, with the transformer leads protruding toward the large capacitors. You may if you choose shorten any lead for neatness, but be sure you do not cut any lead too short, as leads which are cut too short for re-use may void the transformer warranty. If you are using the multivoltage transformer, be sure you leave leads long enough for possible alternative voltage applications. The washers are to be placed on the screws on top of the transformer feet for stiffening. Install the bolts near the edge of the chassis first. That will determine which of the inner sets of holes are to be used. It may be easiest for you to tilt the assembly up on its right side, so the transformer weight is supported by the work surface, or you can turn it upside down. Be careful the transformer does not swing into the circuit board on the module! Before you tighten any of the mounting bolts, check to be sure the line cord and other wires are clear of the transformer feet. 92
q q
Connect the black lead to LT lug #4. (S-3). One of these wires has most likely already been soldered to the lower hole of this lug. Connect the black/white lead to LT lug #6. (S-4). One wire has most likely been soldered to the lower hole of this lug.
93
q
Connect the long green wire from eyelet 7 on the right board to the bare wire between CL and CR. (S). Place this wire down against the chassis. One more connection will be made at the center of this bare wire.
94 0 Connect the red/yellow lead to the center of the bare wire between CL and CR. Be sure all 7 wires are well soldered. 95 0 Connect one red lead to DB lug #l. Connect the other red lead to DB lug #4. 96
90 0 Connect the white wire from eyelet 3 on the same board to FR lug #5. (S-2). Now is the best time to turn the amplifier upside down and shake out any loose bits of solder, wire clippings, etc.
q
Prepare a 13-1/2"r ed wire. Connect one end to PC-9 eyelet #l. (S). Place this wire down against the chassis and connect it to DB lug #l.
13
97 0 Select the .Ol mfd disc capacitor and trim each lead to 3/4". Strip two 1/2" lengths of insulation from a piece of heavy wire, and install these on the capacitor leads. Connect one lead to DB lug #l. (S-3). Connect the other lead to DB lug #4. (S-2). 98 0 Select the power switch and the .OO5 mfd disc capacitor. With the red window (or, on some switches, the #3 lug, or the separate lug) of the switch to your right, temporarily slide the white wire's spade lug part way
onto the left switch lug. Slide the line cord' spade lug s part way onto the middle switch lug. This simply makes it easier to attach the capacitor to these two spade lugs. Cut each capacitor lead to one inch (some freedom of movement is desirable), wrap one lead around the shaft of each spade lug, and solder each. Then carefully disconnect the wires from the switch.
102 0 Select the remaining sheet metal screws and the cover. Before closing up the unit, plug it in a n d
check to see that the fan turns. Because it normally operates at low voltage for low speed, a new fan may need a bit of encouragement at first. Any stiffness is normally overcome after a few minutes operation. Once you are sure it turns on each time the power switch is turned on, secure the cover.
103 0 Peel off the backing from the serial number label, and affix it to the bottom of the chassis.
CONGRAI' ULATIONS! YOU HAVE COMPLETED ONE OF THE FINEST AUDIO AMPLIFIERS EVER DESIGNED. ENJOY ITS SUPERB SOUND.
99 0 Install the fuses. The 15 amp slo-blo fuse goes in the single fuse clip near the power switch. The four 10 ampere fuses, with the thicker elements, go into the two dual fuse clips on the chassis. If you have not already placed fuses in the speaker fuse holders on the back panel, install the 2 ampere size, for these will give good protection to most speakers. A pair of 5 ampere fuses are also included for the speaker holders, in the event your needs require very high
powers. However, for steady state test signals at the full amplifier capabilities, even larger fuse sizes will be needed in the speaker fuse holders.
IF PROBLEMS ARISE
If you are certain the problem lies in the power amplifier, check first to see that the red pilot lamp is lighted. If it is blinking at about 3 times a second, this indicates that the thermal safety breaker on one channel has shut down the amplifier because of excessive temperature. In this case, the exhaust air will be warm. After a few minutes of cooling, the amplifier will commence operation automatically. If it shuts down again, and the amplifier has sufficient ventilation, the malfunction is either internal, or is the result of an excessive (and possibly inaudible) input signal. If the lamp is not lighted at all, the main fuse in the single fuse clip inside the chassis at the front is probably open. If a replacement 15 ampere, slo-blo fuse also blows, the amplifier needs service, and there is a power supply problem. If the relay will not close (no signal at the output, with an input signal) check for excessive DC offset (over 1.8 volts) from either channel at locations 7 or 8 on PC-9-the small relay circuit board. This indicates a defective amplifier channel, requiring competent service. If there is no indication of excessive offset, the fault is in the relay or on the PC-9 circuit board. On rare tions, very may cause the sensing occasions with some arm/cartridge combinahigh signal levels at subaudible frequencies the relay to cut off the output briefly, because circuit sees this as DC offset. If this is annoy-
Now you should make a last check of all the solder connections. Look closely for possible bare wire shorts, Check for secure hardware -especially that on the output terminals. Check that wires are not lying on top of the power resistors on the 7-lug terminal strip. Remove all pieces of solder and wire clippings from the chassis.
Three wire ties have been included in the kit which you may wish to install around groups of wires to make your finished amplifier look neat. Because it is desirable that the ground wires which connect between CL and CR be kept close together, we suggest using one tie at the base of the capacitors.
100 0 Select the front panel assembly and the power switch, and make sure that the power switch is oriented with the red window (#3 lug, or separate lug) to the right, or nearest edge. The switch is a press snap fit from the outside of the panel.
101 0 Select 4 sheet metal screws, and bring the front panel to its approximate position. Carefully attach the 3 wires to the switch lugs: white to the left; green to the right. Push the lugs fully on, and assemble the front panel to the chassis. NEVER ATTEMPT TO PICK UP THE AMPLIFIER BY THE HANDLES IF THE COVER IS NOT SCREWED IN PLACE.
ing, and you are willing to accept a little less relay protection, you you can change R107 and R108 to a higher value. These are now each 39000hms (orange, white, red) and are located above the IC on the small circuit board PC-9A. We suggest 4700 ohms as the next step. At the other extreme, it is possible to increase the sensitivity so that the relay would protect the speaker if a stylus were dropped on the record, but then it might be activated by powerful low frequency transients. If the fan does not turn, or makes a ticking noise, make sure it is properly centered in its supports, and that shipping abuse has not twisted it so the blades are rubbing the housing. Moderate pressure on the struts will recenter it.
14
CIRCUIT DESCRIPTION
The DH-500 amplifier components have been selected to protect against failure, and all parts are operated conservatively to assure unaltered performance and proper operation for many years. The semiconductors have been thoroughly researched and selected for minimum noise and distortion in sustained use, and the printed circuit board associated with the audio signals has been pretested in the circuit to insure that each kit amplifier will meet or exceed all specifications. The amplifier stages are fully DC coupled, with a dual differential pair for the input, and a fully complementary MOSFET output stage. Its power supply is a full wave bridge with 20,000 mfd capacitors on both the plus "+" and minus "-" supplies to provide excellent filtering and dynamic load stability. Protection circuitry includes two separate power supply fuses for each channel, individual thermal sensing devices for each channel to turn the amplifier off if the heat sinks should reach excessive temperature, a relay to disengage the output if excessive DC offset is detected, and output fuses to protect the speakers, in addition to an AC line fuse. Transistors Q3, Q4, Q5 and Q6, the input differential pairs, are matched to control the DC offset of the amplifier. T o optimize the input pair parameters, they are driven from constant current sources - Ql and Q2. An adjustable voltage reference is formed by transistor Q9 and potentiometer PI. Thus the signal sees the bases of transistors Q12 and Q13 tied together. Pl adjusts the voltage to bias the amplifier for Class AB operation, and therefore determines the quiescent (idle) current in the driver and output stages. Complete circuit stability is assured by the positive temperature coefficient of the power MOSFETs. The driver and output stages of the DH-500 are of the full complementary configuration. Q14, Ql5 and Q16 are N channel MOSFETs in parallel for the positive half of the signal, and Q17, Q18 and Q19 are P channel MOSFETs for the negative signal half. There is none of the usual volt amp limiting in the DH-500. D7, D8, D9 and D10 prevent the gates of the MOSFETs from being overdriven in the event of abnormally high signal levels. The B +, B- and speaker fuses limit the maximum current in the outputs. The thermal protection, unlike most circuits, does not interrupt the output of the amplifier. If the heat sink temperature rises to 7X, the amplifier is turned off until it cools. The relay circuit has a 3 section low pass filter which prevents signals above 10 Hz from opening the relay. This circuit allows DC to pass to IClOlA and IClOlB, which sense any offset above 1.8 volts, opening the relay to protect the speakers. DlOl, RlO6 and R107 form the reference for the positive offset detector IClOlA. D102, R109 and RllO form the reference for the negative offset detector IClOlB. C104's charging time is the time delay at turn on, and after any relay actuation.
FUNCTIONAL BLOCK DIAGRAM
AMPLIFIER CIRCUIT
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DIFFERENTIAL AMPLIFIER 93 INPUT -zz I I DIFFERENTlAL AMPLIFIER Q5vQ6 L ' Q4 =
l
0 r PASSIVE c FEEDBACK NETWORK 4 .
CLASS AB BIAS REGULATOR Pig Q9 4 OUTPUT .. SIGNAL ih a
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CURRENT SOURCE 42 &
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L1
PREDRIVER QlO* Qll
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1 NEGATIVE 1 + DRIVER 913
r 1 1 NEGATIVE 1 OUT PUT Q171Q11 Qlq B -
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.
RELAY CIRCUIT
a, F I L T E R ]
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,
+
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NEGATIVE II I O F F S E T 0 ETECTOR lC[B
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1 1 1 1 + DELAY f +
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RELAY DRIVER Ql
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D RELAY
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TIMER ' ICl D .
15
COMPONENT VALUES
All resistors are `1'4 watt 5% carbon film unless otherwise noted. Rl R2 R3 R4 R5 R6 R7 R8 R9 RIO RI1 RI2 RI3 RI4 RI5 R16 RI7 RI8 RI9 R20 R21 R22 R23 R24 R25 R26 R27 R28 R29 R30 R31 R32 R33 R34 R35 R36 R37 R38 RIO1 R102 RI03 R104 RI05 R106 R107 RI08 RIO9 Rl IO Rlll RI 12 R113 R114 Rl15 Rl16 Rl17 RI18 RI19 RI20 R401 R402 R403 R404 R405 R406 R408 R409 R410 R411 R412 DB401 F40 1 F402 F403 F404 F405 IC40 1 Ll PI P2 T40 1 T402 RY40 1 470,000 ohms 1,800 ohms 47,ooO ohms 47,000 ohms 560 ohms 560 ohms 47,000 ohms 560 ohms 560 ohms 1,800 ohms 1,800 ohms 270 ohms 47 ohms 47 ohms 47 ohms 47 ohms 1,800 ohms 1,800 ohms 270 ohms 1,800 ohms 82 ohms 560 ohms 470 ohms 10 ohms 33,000 ohms 3,300 ohms, lw, metal film 1,000 ohms, l/s w. metal film 150 ohms, % w, metal film 1,800 ohms 82 ohms 47 ohms, carbon camp. 47 ohms, carbon camp. 220 ohms, `/z w 2,200 ohms, l/z w 10 ohms I ohm, 10 w 10 ohms, 5 w 28,ooO ohms, % w, metal film 100,000 ohms 120,000 ohms 150,000 ohms 150,000 ohms 27,000 ohms, % w 22,000 ohms 3,900 ohms 3,900 ohms 22,000 ohms 27,000 ohms, % w 10 megohms 4,700 ohms 10 megohms 1 megohms 10,000 ohms 100,000 ohms 150,000 ohms 10 megohms 22,000 ohms 1,500 ohms, 2 w, metal film 470 ohms, % w 470 ohms, `1'2 w 470 ohms, % w 220 ohms, % w 220 ohms, `/z w 220 ohms, % w 1 megohms, % w 300 ohms, 7 w 300 ohms, 7 w 600 ohms, 7 w 600 ohms, 7 w Diode Bridge Fuse, 2A, 3AG (value optional) Fuse, IOA, GLH Fuse, lOA, GLH Fuse, 15A Slo-Blo MDA Fuse, 7A Slo-Blo MDA LM339N Inductor, I .4uH 1000 ohms trimpot 1000 ohms trimpot Power Transformer Power Transformer, multi-voltage DPDT relay
part N,,.
RC044 RC023 RC043 RC043 RC045 RC045 RC043 RC045 RC045 RC023 RC023 RC029 RC039 RC039 RC039 RC039 .RCO23 RC023 RC029 RC023 RC053 RC045 RC04 1 RC013 RC036 RZ013 RM02 I RM013 RC023 RCOS3 RZOll RZOl I RDI 14 RDl15 RC013 RWO12 RWO13 RM053 RC017 RC019 RC02 I RC02 1 RD122 RC026 RC037 RC037 RC026 RD122 RC018 RC042 RC018 RC047 RC016 RC017 R